Which friction hitch patterns are commonly used for a Prusik backup on rappel?

• A. Clove hitch and bowline
• B. Prusik or Klemheist
• C. Figure-eight follow-through and overhand
• D. Figure-eight and half hitch

Answer: (B)

Friction hitch backups on rappel work by gripping the rope when load is applied and releasing when the load is eased, allowing you to arrest a descent or reposition safely. The two most common patterns for this purpose are the Prusik knot and the Klemheist. Both use a smaller-diameter cord wrapped around the main rope so that tightening wraps bite under load, holding you in place, while loosening when you ease off, letting you slide the backup up or down as needed. The Prusik is a classic, versatile choice that works well on various rope conditions and directions of pull. The Klemheist is a closely related option that often bites more predictably on certain ropes or in movement, making it a frequent alternative.

Other patterns listed aren’t used as standard backups for this role because they don’t provide the same reliable friction behavior. A bowline is a fixed loop knot, not a grip around the rope. A clove hitch is a friction hitch but can slip or roll under dynamic loading or dirty/wet ropes. Knots like figure-eight follow-through and overhand serve as connection or stopper knots rather than gripping hitches, so they don’t offer the controlled, adjustable protection needed for a Prusik backup.